The glittering chandeliers, paneled wine room, dark, clubby bar and high-touch service could augur a stuffy experience. Instead, John Besh has made his first (and by far most upscale) restaurant into a showplace for creative culinary energy. Recent dishes from chef de cuisine Todd Pulsinelli have been visually dazzling (venison carpaccio interspersed with ripples of bitter greens and dabs of creamy aioli), locally relevant (cobia crudo with grilled lemon and a crown of chicken cracklin’) and sometimes even a touch whimsical (a cut of drum fully encased in crumbled Zapp’s chips, part of the exceptional value of Friday’s prix fixe lunch). Desserts are intricate, beautiful compositions of taste and texture. This is a place to go all out, with an impressive setting that follows through across the experience.